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Embodied Mastery Through Rope - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://www.azrockandcanyon.com/journal/2020/7/20/the-mind-is-the-engine-of-climbing-performance monthly 0.5 2025-07-12 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/572e9ced5559862dca674986/1595279951416-52PIG2JL5K7RWDCHLZBA/margooo_oliana01_jannovakphotography-2-copie-1-1024x1536.jpg Journal - The Mind is the Engine of climbing Performance https://www.azrockandcanyon.com/journal/2020/6/30/bolting-ethics monthly 0.5 2020-06-30 https://www.azrockandcanyon.com/journal/2016/5/8/crack-addict-alternate monthly 0.5 2021-06-15 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/572e9ced5559862dca674986/1462744534913-YOLC050NGM46D96YSVPR/IMG_0004.jpg Journal - CRACK ADDICT ALTERNATE https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/572e9ced5559862dca674986/1462744534186-9ST26PNZ2T84ID1U901F/IMG_0005.jpg Journal - CRACK ADDICT ALTERNATE https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/572e9ced5559862dca674986/1462744535832-6CP083WGSNZKY9ACOAYY/IMG_0007.jpg Journal - 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CRACK ADDICT ALTERNATE https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/572e9ced5559862dca674986/1462744550773-BQLSFSVG6IX7F1F55B1G/IMG_0016.jpg Journal - CRACK ADDICT ALTERNATE https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/572e9ced5559862dca674986/1462744550227-4KHHJVIONBYWB9XIV132/IMG_0017.jpg Journal - CRACK ADDICT ALTERNATE https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/572e9ced5559862dca674986/1462744553449-RV9YT4R7ANNFFZWSJZGP/IMG_0018.jpg Journal - CRACK ADDICT ALTERNATE https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/572e9ced5559862dca674986/1462744552526-L7HIWYK82JCHUWSXXAO3/IMG_0019.jpg Journal - CRACK ADDICT ALTERNATE https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/572e9ced5559862dca674986/1462744556579-A5RRU3KOO8ORJS76FCL8/IMG_0020.jpg Journal - CRACK ADDICT ALTERNATE https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/572e9ced5559862dca674986/1462744555640-UBNV3GFLPN5WMHQMVI5M/IMG_0021.jpg Journal - CRACK ADDICT ALTERNATE https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/572e9ced5559862dca674986/1462744557283-EH36230ILL5TGYO5DXE4/IMG_0022.jpg Journal - CRACK ADDICT ALTERNATE https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/572e9ced5559862dca674986/1462744561452-ZYG91BGHFOWR1TY3K0OF/IMG_0026.jpg Journal - CRACK ADDICT ALTERNATE https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/572e9ced5559862dca674986/1462744560004-PNYEX6G3HG1MI8KB5CGF/IMG_0027.jpg Journal - CRACK ADDICT ALTERNATE https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/572e9ced5559862dca674986/1462744563440-HRB1X6H2MFX78J29WSNC/IMG_0028.jpg Journal - CRACK ADDICT ALTERNATE https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/572e9ced5559862dca674986/1462744565313-RYLU5CS34KLTKOJUYHYB/IMG_0029.jpg Journal - CRACK ADDICT ALTERNATE https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/572e9ced5559862dca674986/1462744573514-XCVLU9PJQ32HENZW6527/IMG_0033.jpg Journal - CRACK ADDICT ALTERNATE https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/572e9ced5559862dca674986/1462744579691-UINQ32QBTMOAU22FFJ5V/IMG_0036.jpg Journal - CRACK ADDICT ALTERNATE https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/572e9ced5559862dca674986/1462744578030-N4FI9SK7DSPP81HWJGCV/IMG_0037.jpg Journal - CRACK ADDICT ALTERNATE https://www.azrockandcanyon.com/journal/2019/11/8/rappel-error-rappelled-off-end-of-rope-in-storm monthly 0.5 2019-11-08 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/572e9ced5559862dca674986/1573230955121-W30U4PM0QUQP71FU6DXU/anam-13201214847-1544149668.png Journal - Rappelled Off End of Rope in Storm My climbing partner and I were attempting to climb Tenaya Peak, Matthes Crest, and Cathedral Peak—three long but moderate routes in the Tuolumne Meadows area—in a day. Because of the sheer amount of climbing and distance we would need to travel, we packed light, opting not to carry any warm or waterproof layers. We left our car at 6 a.m. and summited Tenaya at roughly 9:30 a.m., then hiked 3.5 miles over to Matthes Crest and began climbing around noon. About 2 p.m. we noticed what looked like thunderstorms far in the distance, but the clouds seemed to be moving away from us, so we continued. At 3 p.m., as we were nearing the south summit, we noticed clouds forming directly above us, so decided to bail and began searching for a descent. We found a gully on the west side, just before the south summit, that had slings around various trees in it. We scrambled down around 30 feet to the first tree anchor and began flaking our 60-meter rope. Almost immediately, it began hailing and a lighting storm started directly on top of us. In such an exposed position, we were shaken and began rushing. Rather than properly flaking the rope out and finding the midpoint (our rope did not have a middle marker), I tied knots in both ends and sent my partner down the rappel immediately, figuring we needed to get below the top. Before reaching the next rappel tree (only about 40 feet below), he had to stop and untangle the rope and reposition the rope ends, which took some time. Eventually, he made it to the next tree anchor and I quickly descended to join him. Dime-size hail was falling, and lightning was all around us. In my haste, I didn’t move the rappel lines out of the constricted gully we were rappelling and onto the face. When we went to pull the rope, it became stuck. Luckily, I also had brought a 65-meter static tag line. So, while my partner continued to try to free the stuck rope, I began uncoiling the thin tag line. It almost immediately tangled. Again, opting for speed over thoroughness, I eyeballed what I thought was the midpoint and tossed the ends down. In my haste, I only tied a stopper knot in one end. As I began to rappel, I had to stop multiple times to pull the loose ends of the rope out of the waterfall-filled gully. After about 25 meters, I reached the base of the vertical wall and was standing on a 45-degree slab. Feeling confident that I had made it down to scrambling terrain, I began scouting for a good stance to go off rappel. As I descended a few more feet, the unknotted end of the rope slipped through my ATC and my autoblock and I began tumbling. I rolled 50 feet down a tiered rock slab before finally coming to a stop. Miraculously, I survived relatively unscathed. My helmet was dented, and I had large gashes in my left knee and right arm, but no concussion, broken bones, or other serious injuries. Also, I had not pulled the tag line down with me when I fell, so my partner was able to reset the rappel (properly this time) and rappel down to me. We had no cell phone service, no warm or dry gear, and were about six miles from the closest trailhead. We had a bivy sack with us, but decided it would be better to keep moving rather than wait out the storm. Leaving the ropes behind, we started hiking. Six hours later, at 9:30 p.m., we reached the trailhead and someone offered us a ride back to our car at Tenaya Lake, from which we drove to the closest ER. ANALYSIS I am acutely aware that rappelling accidents typically don’t end this well. One conclusion you might take away from this account is that people should recommit to perfect rappelling practices: Always tie stopper knots, always make sure the midpoint of the rope is at the anchor, always use a backup, etc. I agree wholehearted with these practices, but in a crisis even well-trained people are prone to making mistakes. The real lessons for me are how to avoid a crisis situation in the first place. To that end, I think there are several takeaways. First, we were in the high-country, far from any road, and it was utterly irresponsible not to have more warm clothing and raincoats. While the lightning was dangerous, I believe it was the cold and wet that ultimately caused me to take shortcuts while rappelling. Second, we should have begun descending the moment we saw signs of storms in the distance. A desire not to leave gear was part of the issue, and our desire to finish the trifecta of climbs we had started also probably led us to make a bad decision. The fear of lightning then led me to rush the rappel setups. Given all the tangles and the stuck rope, I don’t believe rushing this way saved us any time at all. Finally, and this is a minor point, a rope with a midpoint marker makes it a lot easier to set up a good rappel. (Source: Anonymous report from the climber, male, age 29.) https://www.azrockandcanyon.com/journal/2019/11/8/rappel-error-hair-caught-in-rappel-device monthly 0.5 2019-11-08 https://www.azrockandcanyon.com/journal/2019/11/8/rappel-rigging-error-fall-on-rock-distraction-california-yosemite-valley-serenity-crack monthly 0.5 2019-11-08 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/572e9ced5559862dca674986/1573230806133-58FZ2R7UY9HZLTUEZJH9/anam-13201214423-1507210848.png Journal - Rappel Rigging Error https://www.azrockandcanyon.com/journal/2019/11/8/mj626sbsk5zsxjordtg6ws7lctkw09 monthly 0.5 2019-11-08 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/572e9ced5559862dca674986/1573230138373-4XB536P808PQ2OYIAZRX/Communication-is-Key.jpg Journal - 10 Tips for Wilderness Survival Sometimes we forget how easy we have it. Amid our crazy life schedules we tend to take for granted that purified bottle of water when thirsty, or the push of a button to light a fire. But it’s important to remember that in the blink of an eye, it can all be gone. The unexpected happens, you get in an accident or lose your way; now, it’s just you and the wilderness with no ties to civilization. Here are ten basic survival tips to get you prepared- just in case. Communication is Key Please please please tell someone where you are going before you set off for a trip. No matter where you go, even if you end up stranded unexpectedly, you started from somewhere in civilization. Tell close friends and family where you are going and if you have a specific route or amount of time you will be gone. Keep Your Head On Now is the time to be calm and think positive. It doesn’t sound like much, but optimism goes a long way, and in a survival situation, it starts with you, your attitude and your will no matter how scared and alone you may feel. First, keep a realistic outlook and diligently plan to keep yourself in the best possible physical and mental state. If something isn’t working out, like building a fire or shelter, don’t rush, because that can lead to panic. Stop, breathe and think about what you need, observe your surroundings and organize a new plan. Take Inventory Keep everything you’ve got, because the second plans go south, these items will become your most prized possessions and could save your life. Don’t underestimate the worthiness of even the smallest knick knack-inn Gary Paulson’s classic, The Hatchet, Brian Robeson used his shoe lace to make a nifty bow and arrow for survival! Build a Shelter It’s time to get creative. Familiarize yourself with how to build a lean-to; there are various types of shelters you can build and each has different pros and cons. Obviously you want overhead covering for warmth at night and protection from the elements. If you are in rocky, mountainous terrain, look for overhangs. Otherwise, use limbs and leaves or anything that can provide insulation. Pine needles usually blanket the ground in thick batches, excellent for bedding. Agua Por Favor Your body will not last more than three days without water. If you are lucky enough to be near a body of freshwater — good for you, just make sure to boil before quenching your thirst. No water in sight? Continue your search and construct a rain catcher or water still. Keep that Belly Happy Things can get frustrating when it comes to finding adequate sources of food when you are in survival mode, especially since malnutrition will work you mentally and physically, making you feel weak, cranky and delirious. It’s a good idea to get familiar with edible wild berries and plants for future reference when out in the wild. Also, it’s time to grow up and banish the word “picky” from your vocabulary. When it comes to survival, embrace anything and everything (carefully) including bugs, eggs, fruit, leaves. Learn to build some simple traps to catch small animals and don’t rely on just one single food source. Protein is important for strength; know what various nutrients your body needs for prime sustainability. Light that Fire Those glowing red flames provide light, cooked food, warmth and protection from predators and pesky bugs. Here are a few tried and true techniques for conjuring that mighty blaze: Fire Plow Bow and Drill Lens Method Fire from Ice Soda Can and Chocolate Battery method One Word: Tool Keep a pocket knife, or multi-tool with you at all times, because you never know when you will need it- and when you do need it, you will rejoice that you have something to cut, protect and prepare food- even if all you have is a crappy, little knife. Now just learn how to sharpen it like MacGuyver. H‑E-L‑P Survival is your first priority, but don’t forget- you need to get rescued as well. Come up with an action plan in case a plane flies overhead or there are are search parties nearby. You’ve seen it in the movies — prepare a giant, easily visible fire pit out in the open or lay out stones in the pattern of HELP or S.O.S. You can also use any shiny, metallic object for reflection purposes. Navigation It’s a good idea to have a compass with you at all times, but if not then what? Get old school and use the stars- it’s a lot easier than you think. Also, keep note of rivers, paths or mountains- following these can lead to roads and civilization. https://www.azrockandcanyon.com/journal/2019/11/8/15-power-nutrition-tips-for-high-performance-athletes monthly 0.5 2019-11-08 https://www.azrockandcanyon.com/journal/2019/11/8/xoo157e4745dnc1bad1jb4diuwi2jz monthly 0.5 2019-11-08 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/572e9ced5559862dca674986/1573222117028-P1UG8JSS4245SEWKTJKW/Climbing-tips.jpg Journal - Why Get Stronger When You Can Get Better? Being good at rock climbing is all about learning proper technique and then ingraining it so it becomes second nature. In the long run, technique will take you much further than a strong back and a vice grip. Yet most climbers are hyper-focused on trying to get stronger oftentimes at the expense of learning good technique. Emily Harrington, who has climbed multiple 5.14’s in various stages of personal fitness, recognizes the superlative of proper technique. Emily has been climbing for 13 years, putting in well over the requisite 10,000 hours one supposedly needs to master any craft. As a result, she believes that no matter what shape she’s in, she will always be able to climb at a baseline of 5.12a throughout life. If you know how to move your body, you should be able to climb 5.12a, Emily says, no matter how strong you are. This may seem surprising to the climbers out there for whom 5.12a is a lifetime goal, yet the point is not that 5.12 is easy, but rather that proper technique honed over many hours of practice is more enduring than one’s momentary form strength and fitness. The problem is, it’s easier to get stronger than it is to get better. Anyone can go to the gym and rip off a bunch of reps or climb a bunch of boulder problems and feel as though they have accomplished something. Training with the goal of improving technique is more cerebral, requiring a certain degree of consciousness about what you’re doing. This is because good technique is all about ingraining movements, coordinating the upper and lower body and maintaining awareness of how much effort you’re expending to the point that it becomes second nature. Great climbers aren’t thinking about what they need to do — they just do the exact right thing. This is the art of free climbing. Improvements in one’s technique are much less tangible—harder to measure or gauge. Thus, it can be difficult to know how to approach the gym with the goal of becoming a better free climber. Here are a few tips that you may find useful: First, be good: Many beginner and intermediate climbers have approached me wanting to know how to get strong, but I’ve never heard anyone ask how to get good. The two are undoubtedly related. But instead of jumping on the hardest route or boulder problem you think you can do, focus on making perfect ascents of easier routes and problems. Try to be good before you try to be strong. How perfectly can you climb something? Bad feet: Problems in the gym typically get harder as the hand holds become worse and farther apart, while usually the foot jibs remain pretty good. But if you have the ability to help set some problems wherever you climb indoors, I recommend setting decent hand holds and the worst, most polished, difficult-to-stand-on footholds you can find. You want them to be bad, but not so bad that you just force a campus move. You want the focus to be on using your feet properly—the first and most lastingly important step in becoming good. As a double benefit, nothing will get you stronger than climbing problems with bad feet. Master the back-step: One of the most useful maneuvers in climbing is the back-step, where you stand on the outside edge of your right foot and rotate your lower body so that your right hip is against the wall (or vice versa). Most people climb straight on, with their hands and feet set as if they were climbing up a ladder. If you watch great climbers, they are rarely so squared up; one hip or another is always twisted toward the wall, with a foot back-stepping. Also, focus on getting into back-steps quicker. Many climbers put, say, their left foot on a hold, then match their right foot on the hold in the back-step position. Instead of messing around with matching feet, many times it’s better to cross the right leg over and get into the back-step right away. Stand Up: You’ve undoubtedly heard the advice, Keep your arms straight! But, of course, if your arms were straight the whole time, you wouldn’t be able to flex them to pull yourself upward. When you’re hanging on holds, indeed, it’s a good idea to keep your arms straight. But the second part of this advice that’s left out is how to begin initiating your upward movement. Typically, beginners will initiate the move with their arms: pulling themselves up, locking off like on a pull-up bar, with their feet way low. Instead, try to always initiate your upward movement with your legs. Keep your arms straight and lever yourself upward by pressing with your feet. Eventually, you’ll have to flex your arms, but try to do so only after you’ve initiated the upward movement with the legs–even if it’s just a little bit. Teach yourself what this feels like by climbing easy (5.6) routes in the gym. Hang from straight arms and try to drive yourself upward as far as you can by high-stepping your feet and using only your leg muscles to stand up on every hold. Wear better shoes: Beginners typically choose loose-fitting comfortable shoes. But no matter what grade you climb, I recommend you get a high-end pair of shoes that are snug (not tight!). Higher end shoes give you much more precision, and do a better job of allowing you to use all parts of your foot. This is the one and only piece of gear that can actually make a difference in your climbing! Get the best fitting pair of high-end shoes you can find. Develop your own style: Something that often gets lost when “experts” try to teach beginners how to climb/what to do is that there is no such thing as one perfect way to climb a route or problem. There are no hard and fast rules. For some climbers, the best solution to a problem will be to climb fast and very dynamically—it’s possible that this will be more efficient for them. Others may find it works better for them to climb at a slower pace, more statically and with greater control. This is where free climbing becomes an art of self-expression. Cherish this. For example, in his clinics, Dave Graham spends a lot of time helping people develop their own styles by having a group of people figure out two or three different beta sequences that work on a given problem. Try to climb a problem two or three different ways. See what works for you. Don’t be afraid to experiment. Perhaps it’s easiest to just dyno! Ultimately, the best style is the one that gets you to the top most efficiently. Avoid finger injuries: Have you ever noticed that climbers typically blow a tendon within their first three years of climbing? Beginner climbers tend to race through the grades relying on rapid strength gains, not technique, which creates a false sense of ability that encourages them to get on hard, crimpy routes before their tendons are ready for them. While the musculature may be there, building up the tendon resilience to withstand the stress of hanging from small holds takes a long time—sometimes three years or more. Avoid finger injuries by using the open-hand grip indoors whenever you can. Also, STOP crimping before your fingers feel sore! Admittedly, this is easier said than done. Build a base: Dani Andrada, one of the best climbers in the world, was rumored to have redpointed 50 5.13b’s before he even considered getting on a 5.13c. While those grades are admittedly elite, the lesson still applies: Take the time needed to master the easier grades before moving on. Did you redpoint 50 5.11d’s before even trying a 5.12a? Make climbing a practice: We try to perform our best every single time we enter the gym or a crag. Instead, start thinking of your climbing sessions as a practice. If you climb two or three times per week—don’t worry, the strength will come. But for right now, focus on mastering good technique. https://www.azrockandcanyon.com/journal/2019/4/17/salome-the-jug-az-rendezvous-2019 monthly 0.5 2019-04-17 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/572e9ced5559862dca674986/1555520569638-BUX7TZWSZI4M7986688T/AZ+Rendezvous+-+Salome+Jug+-+April+11%2C+2019+AZ+Rock+and+Canyon+Adventures+%2879%29.JPG Journal - SALOME (THE JUG) AZ RENDEZVOUS 2019 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/572e9ced5559862dca674986/1555520588873-2PG9Q8H1CDY4R64IQ14L/AZ+Rendezvous+-+Salome+Jug+-+April+11%2C+2019+AZ+Rock+and+Canyon+Adventures+%2883%29.JPG Journal - SALOME (THE JUG) AZ RENDEZVOUS 2019 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/572e9ced5559862dca674986/1555520619485-WLIDJ0DLMLXCJ0F7OGUS/AZ+Rendezvous+-+Salome+Jug+-+April+11%2C+2019+AZ+Rock+and+Canyon+Adventures+%289%29.JPG Journal - SALOME (THE JUG) AZ RENDEZVOUS 2019 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